11/19/04

Hearty, elegant dinners in a casual canyon setting.

by Contributor

The Scene
Climb the creaking, wooden steps in the winter and join a happy crowd of out-of-town skiers in the bar, taking in the pizza-and-burger part of the menu. Or join a more muted group of contented regulars in the adjoining dining rooms, often with a fine view of Little Cottonwood Canyon. Tim Garling brings precision and creativity to his cooking style. Spouse Kathy Garling deftly manages Shallow Shaft, and helps set the warm tone.

The Food
Regional Northwest and Southwest accents to classic fresh seafood, pasta, and meat entrées. Fine sauces add color and enhance flavor, and attention is paid to side dishes. Great New York steak ''Neptune,''--angus beef with a rich béarnaise sauce and four broiled lemon-butter jumbo prawns to take you over the top. Other favorites include pork tenderloin medallions and classic herb-crusted rack of lamb.